Peter Menting "Big Green" ML-Voigt

Comments & Disscussion

Sheet 1 -- Enclosure Plans

Sheet 2 -- Base Details & Notes

Sheet 3 -- Sub-baffle Details & System Notes


* The missing tweeter; The box was designed for the WR125 and at that time I was considering adding a tweeter. The FR125 settled that issue. This is a flex design however, so either driver can be used with option for a tweeter. The vent and connectors are placed so that the enclosure can be rotated allowing experimentation and if you choose both front and rear sub-baffles can be round or tear shaped.

*Stuffing is accoustastuff ---1/4 lb/ cu ft. The stuffing area is 1.126 cu ft so anywhere from 1/3-1/2 lb should be ok. I prefer this over Dacron because it teases better and stays in place. I doubt there is much difference in sound however.

*At present, the vent is stuffed as well to reduce the bass, however as these break in, I may remove it.

* The gaskets for sealing the sub-baffle to the main enclosure are a !/16" cork/ rubber compound used for automobile gaskets. It comes in sheets, can be drawn upon and cut easily with household scissors. I purchased mine at Advance Auto Parts, but any auto parts store probably would have them. I also made driver mounting gaskets from it and they worked well. They can be temporarily held in place with spray adhesive when mounting.

* The enclosure is 3/4 " Baltic Birch. If you choose to paint the units as I did then a cheaper grade with imperfect veneer facing may be used. The interior is sprayed with 2 coats of auto undercoating. Joints are glued and power nailed through the cleats.Driver holes are cut with a Jasper Jig and rebates with a guided mortising bit. To facilitate experimenting the sub baffles are attached with 1/4 bolts and steel inserts. (I don't care for "T" nuts.) and can be easily removed.

*Drivers are bi-wired , nothing fancy about the wire, Rat Shack 18 Gage.

*The finishing process is as follows;
(1) coat of carpenters' glue thinned with water. I used a 50/50 mix. Give this at least two drying days. Sand with 400 grade paper.
(2) coats of black bed liner paint. Sand with 400 paper to adjust texture as required.
(2) coats of spray enamel, almost any type will work.

The red oak is final sanded with 220 paper, given one coat of poly varnish, re sanded with 400 paper and waxed 3x with butcher's wax.

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