Sheet 1 -- Enclosure Plans
Sheet 2 -- Base Details & Notes
Sheet 3 -- Sub-baffle Details & System Notes
* The missing tweeter; The box was designed for the WR125 and at that time I was
considering adding a tweeter. The FR125 settled that issue. This is a flex design
however, so either driver can be used with option for a tweeter. The vent and connectors
are placed so that the enclosure can be rotated allowing experimentation and if you
choose both front and rear sub-baffles can be round or tear shaped.
*Stuffing is accoustastuff ---1/4 lb/ cu ft. The stuffing area is 1.126 cu ft so
anywhere from 1/3-1/2 lb should be ok. I prefer this over Dacron because it teases
better and stays in place. I doubt there is much difference in sound however.
*At present, the vent is stuffed as well to reduce the bass, however as these break
in, I may remove it.
* The gaskets for sealing the sub-baffle to the main enclosure are a !/16" cork/
rubber compound used for automobile gaskets. It comes in sheets, can be drawn upon
and cut easily with household scissors. I purchased mine at Advance Auto Parts, but
any auto parts store probably would have them. I also made driver mounting gaskets
from it and they worked well. They can be temporarily held in place with spray adhesive
* The enclosure is 3/4 " Baltic Birch. If you choose to paint the units as I
did then a cheaper grade with imperfect veneer facing may be used. The interior is
sprayed with 2 coats of auto undercoating. Joints are glued and power nailed through
the cleats.Driver holes are cut with a Jasper Jig and rebates with a guided mortising
bit. To facilitate experimenting the sub baffles are attached with 1/4 bolts and
steel inserts. (I don't care for "T" nuts.) and can be easily removed.
*Drivers are bi-wired , nothing fancy about the wire, Rat Shack 18 Gage.
*The finishing process is as follows;
(1) coat of carpenters' glue thinned with water. I used a 50/50 mix. Give this at
least two drying days. Sand with 400 grade paper.
(2) coats of black bed liner paint. Sand with 400 paper to adjust texture as required.
(2) coats of spray enamel, almost any type will work.
The red oak is final sanded with 220 paper, given one coat of poly varnish, re sanded
with 400 paper and waxed 3x with butcher's wax.